Abbey of Fontfroid

Saturday 13th March was an open day at the Abbey of Fontfroid. We had planned to visit it earlier but with one thing and another we just didn't get around to it. The open day seemed like the perfect reason to plan our visit.

Bages

We decided to first visit Bages, south of Narbonne, which is a small fishing village located on the sheltered side of a large lagoon on the Mediterranean. After our recent snow we thought a view of the open water and some sunshine would be beneficial. Although we were not sure if the weather would deliver, when we arrived we found it to be quite sunny but very windy.

Boats on the lagoon

Boardwalk and algae ponds

We had a short walk along the boardwalk to see the natural algae pools and of course spotted some flamingoes. Our picnic lunch in the car was nice and it was even warm out of the wind. After lunch we took a stroll into the small village and it indeed looks picturesque with some nice views over the lagoon. Reminded us a little of the Cinque Terre -five fishing villages on the north west coast of Italy.

Then we drove to the Abbey via a link road which looks like it is often flooded. More flamingoes and better photo opportunity this time.

Flamingoes

The Abbey is rather amazing and with a long history. In 1093 the Cistercian Abbey was founded by the Viscount of Narbonne. It was granted much land and increased in both wealth and status. After fighting against the Cathars and then later the French Revolution (1791) the abbey was dissolved. It was refounded in 1858 by monks and then passed into private hands in 1908. Today the Abbey is privately owned and produces wine under the AOC Corbieres appellation. There is also a working farm, bookshop, restaurant and guest quarters.

Garden at centre of cloister

The courtyard was still covered in snow but we were happy the sun was shining for our visit. The chapel showed some magnificent stained glass windows and rosettes and the crypt was eerily attractive. Old wells, now covered, make you wonder how many pails of water would have been hauled up by hand for daily use several hundred years ago. The store room seems cavernous when empty, but I imagine the barrels of wine stacked up against one wall and honey, hay, or some such food crop stored against the other.

Plenty of storage

Basket with roses

There are many photo opportunities around the cloister. Most of the arches are carved with a different pattern, the small central garden is laid out in a formal style and there is a well at one end. To one side of the cloister is a meeting room which is the only place the monks were allowed to speak with each other. Even non-religious people can appreciate the beauty of the sculptures, stone and graphic embellishments which humbly decorate the Abbey.

Pieta

Cross

Cloister

The outside gardens are tranquil and we spent some time sitting on the benches and enjoying the sun and atmosphere. Small box hedges surround gardens of roses which will be a spectacle when they are flowering. Even not in flower, you can see the time and effort spent to make such a pleasure on rocky soil.

Sundial

There is a walk up to the cross on top of the hill but given the weather conditions we flagged that this time. On a warm spring day I imagine the views from up there would be amazing.

The Abbey hosts several public events during the year and if you'd like more information click here.

Some of the iron gates

vine theme

Snow Yeti Again

Well, this is going to sound a bit like a broken record, but we have had snow again this week. But first, let me tell you about our little trip last weekend to Rennes le Chateau.

We decided, after reading about the snow forecast, to make the most of the fine weather on Sunday and go to the market at Esperaza. Sun bright and people chirpy and market a little quiet but still nice. On the way home we took a detour and went to have a quick look around Rennes le Chateau.

Tour de Magdalene

Penitence

Chapel of Mary Magdalene

Those of you who have read Da Vinci Code (Dan Brown) and Sepulchre (Kate Mosse) will know the story of Berenger Sauniere, who was a local priest accused of receiving funds inappropriately and even of spying for the Germans during WWI. His grave is in the churchyard of the Chapel of Mary Magadalene. This small chapel is beautifully decorated.

There are some nice windy streets and interesting buildings in the village, as well as stunning views over the Razes from nearby the Tower - the Tour de Magadalene. Inside the tourist office you can find a huge glass-covered excavation hole, which was dynamite blasted in the '60s to try and find "buried treasure", which of course was never found and probably never existed. But it did start fresh rumours about the priest, followed by a series of books and theories, some mentioned above. You can also visit the museum.

Feathered clouds on Sunday

Later in the day we had some lovely feather clouds which to us signify an oncoming storm. It was unbelievable as the weather was just warming up nicely and the day was so bright. But Monday morning was a completely different story. A large blanket of snow was everywhere we could see. The snowflakes started off wet and large and soon became thick on the ground. The temperature continued to drop and by the end of the day everything was quiet when we took Cassy for a walk down to the reserve. Wearing our good old NZ gumboots otherwise the snow would have gotten into our shoes!

Monday

Tuesday morning

Looking towards the back fence
Icicles on shed up to a meter long

After 4 days there is snow still sitting on the ground and in some trees. We have had watery sun occasionally during the week but not enough to get rid of all the snow. The icicles are beginning to thaw and crash to the ground. Now we feel we have seen enough winter and just want it to be spring! Poor birds are having a tough time finding enough to eat so we are putting out "fat balls" for them to nibble. It's quite lovely to see them all queueing up and then some underneath feeding on the bits that drop.

Robin in the snow

A couple of weeks ago we completed our new fence around the garden we planned to upgrade this winter. Before we could start we had to remove the privet hedge - one reason for getting rid of this hedge is that it looked rather straggly and another reason is that I am allergic to the flower pollen. We got a couple of the smaller ones out no trouble, but the others called for the more drastic action of pulley and block - I think Wouter likes to use these machines - like making cement is the grown man's answer to the sandpit.

Front garden with privet hedge

Wouter working wonders with the pulley

Wouter Kabouter......

I always hoped to find a kabouter (gnome) in the garden!

The posts are from acacia and were given to us by our vineyard neighbours. They just wanted to get rid of them and we said we would take them. Simple and great for us! We did buy a few small plants to pretty up the entrance (hopefully they survive the snow) and at some stage we will get something hanging on the rails by the gate. The other side of the fence will be covered with clematis once they grow. The centre part of this garden will also be changed, but we are not entirely sure how we will do this part.

Posts woven with Virginia creeper and pruned branches

By next Tuesday our temperatures will be into double figures again, so we are told, and then it will be a race against the clock to do all the chores that need to be done before planting, before trees sprout again, before fruit sets, and before weeds get too big to handle! After that's all done the snow will be long gone and we'll be looking at the next chores of building our outdoor guest barbecue making a cover for the well-pump.