Abbey of Fontfroid

Saturday 13th March was an open day at the Abbey of Fontfroid. We had planned to visit it earlier but with one thing and another we just didn't get around to it. The open day seemed like the perfect reason to plan our visit.

Bages

We decided to first visit Bages, south of Narbonne, which is a small fishing village located on the sheltered side of a large lagoon on the Mediterranean. After our recent snow we thought a view of the open water and some sunshine would be beneficial. Although we were not sure if the weather would deliver, when we arrived we found it to be quite sunny but very windy.

Boats on the lagoon

Boardwalk and algae ponds

We had a short walk along the boardwalk to see the natural algae pools and of course spotted some flamingoes. Our picnic lunch in the car was nice and it was even warm out of the wind. After lunch we took a stroll into the small village and it indeed looks picturesque with some nice views over the lagoon. Reminded us a little of the Cinque Terre -five fishing villages on the north west coast of Italy.

Then we drove to the Abbey via a link road which looks like it is often flooded. More flamingoes and better photo opportunity this time.

Flamingoes

The Abbey is rather amazing and with a long history. In 1093 the Cistercian Abbey was founded by the Viscount of Narbonne. It was granted much land and increased in both wealth and status. After fighting against the Cathars and then later the French Revolution (1791) the abbey was dissolved. It was refounded in 1858 by monks and then passed into private hands in 1908. Today the Abbey is privately owned and produces wine under the AOC Corbieres appellation. There is also a working farm, bookshop, restaurant and guest quarters.

Garden at centre of cloister

The courtyard was still covered in snow but we were happy the sun was shining for our visit. The chapel showed some magnificent stained glass windows and rosettes and the crypt was eerily attractive. Old wells, now covered, make you wonder how many pails of water would have been hauled up by hand for daily use several hundred years ago. The store room seems cavernous when empty, but I imagine the barrels of wine stacked up against one wall and honey, hay, or some such food crop stored against the other.

Plenty of storage

Basket with roses

There are many photo opportunities around the cloister. Most of the arches are carved with a different pattern, the small central garden is laid out in a formal style and there is a well at one end. To one side of the cloister is a meeting room which is the only place the monks were allowed to speak with each other. Even non-religious people can appreciate the beauty of the sculptures, stone and graphic embellishments which humbly decorate the Abbey.

Pieta

Cross

Cloister

The outside gardens are tranquil and we spent some time sitting on the benches and enjoying the sun and atmosphere. Small box hedges surround gardens of roses which will be a spectacle when they are flowering. Even not in flower, you can see the time and effort spent to make such a pleasure on rocky soil.

Sundial

There is a walk up to the cross on top of the hill but given the weather conditions we flagged that this time. On a warm spring day I imagine the views from up there would be amazing.

The Abbey hosts several public events during the year and if you'd like more information click here.

Some of the iron gates

vine theme

Lagrasse

Four weeks ago we took a day off when the sun was shining brightly and made a trip to Lagrasse. The village is officially one of the most beautiful in France and the Abbey had caught our interest as a place to visit. It is in the Corbieres region of the Aude department and about 30 minutes east of Carcassonne. We felt we had not seen enough of our close neighbour on a couple of previous trips and wanted to see a bit more.

We took a secondary road via St Hilaire and through army territory with an interesting note that it reminded us very much of the Desert Road in NZ, an area also used by the army. Otherwise there was not much of a view until we were close by, but that was quite stunning.

Lagrasse street

We made a small walk around the village and found it to be very picturesque - lots of photo opportunities here. The river Orbieu runs through the village and the streets are from the 12th century and have attracted many artists, sculptors and potters from around the world.

covered market

There is a covered market where you can imagine the dealings of traders in times gone by. It reminds me a little of the village in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.

medieval bridge

The Abbey is in two parts - one which is still used by monks today and is not open to visitors, the other part we visited. In its youth the monastery became rich very quickly and its lands spread as far south as Spain the in 9th and 10th centuries. These days there is ongoing reconstruction and repair work without interrupting a fascinating visit. The nearby cemetry is also an attraction.

Abbey across the river

altar

ruins

inscription

Travelling home we took another route and passed a few small villages which would be lovely to visit again for more photos as they reminded us of Mid-Wales. But no more trips for a while as we buckle down to do the last work to get our B&B running. There is dust and rubble everywhere, a big pile of debris on the driveway, hoses and pipes galore and lots of work still to do.

someone's former home

old wine stock